Monday, April 18, 2011
U6b Progress Report
As the following photo's illustrate both models are actually being worked on and actually making progress. The most obvious change is the primer, a very light coat of rattle can automotive stuff which worked very well. I cleaned the car bodies with alcohol via cotton swabs and then had to go over everything with tweezers to pick off the "hairs". The paint serves to "blend" everything together and brings out the details like the nbw's on the roof castings. It also brings out the goofs. Not too many, thank you very much, but at least I know where to go to "fix" them.
I got a lot of work done on the underframes, mounting the fuel tanks, battery boxes and jack pads as well as some minor adjustments to the truck mounts. I was originally going to solder up the steps but the thought of making eight of them sounded boring and when that happens I tend to procrastinate. So I made a rubber mold and cast a bunch of them out of high strength resin. While it worked, they were very flexible and fragile and I had to "repair" almost all of them before they were usable. In the end I decided not to use them because they just didn't look right. Back to soldering 6 more sets out of brass.......
The end beams need more work including coupler lift bars (3) and grab irons. The rest of the grab irons will be done using parts out of Presicion Scales bin. Speaking of whom I have a new order going out to those folks soon covering such items as the bells, cab arm rests, air tanks etc. etc.
Some small detail parts have been completed but not installed because painting and weathering has to be completed first. Things like the cab window shades, these are canvas units on metal frames, made from brass wire and tissue already painted and weathered. You can see the mount holes in one of the photo's.
I have found a source for motors that looks good on the surface. These are "surplus" high quality motors that are very inexpensive and at these prices I can afford to give them a try. I'll let you know how this works out.
While it seems like this project is coming to an end I know better. There is a lot of work yet to do. Head down and forge ahead.
Originally one of the goals of this exercise was to build a fairly inexpensive model of an unavailable prototype. I have been having second thoughts about the cost involved. Basing the whole thing on the Athearn drive system was the best decision I've made so far. Even at that power trucks for both units have cost about $70 including the worm gears and caps. Detail parts have cost over $100 so far and more are to come. The basic scratch building materials ran about $30 but I have enough left to build another unit. I still have to purchase a decoder and sound system for both engines. This is not cheap!! Considering I bought a Bachmann Shay at Ebay for about $75 delivered, the economics are a little confused. However, I really enjoy scratchbuilding and there are no models like these available, period. Furthermore, I intend to do this again, I have projects lined up down the road when these are completed.
Truthfully there are mistakes in both of these models. They are far from perfect but then I haven't done this in over 30 years. I have had to relearn a lot of stuff. I have no intention of entering them in any contest and it is unlikely they would win anything if I did. I have never had much use for model contests. Believe me, I know where the problems are with them, I don't need someone else to point them out. I am a much harsher critic than any contest judge could be.
I got a lot of work done on the underframes, mounting the fuel tanks, battery boxes and jack pads as well as some minor adjustments to the truck mounts. I was originally going to solder up the steps but the thought of making eight of them sounded boring and when that happens I tend to procrastinate. So I made a rubber mold and cast a bunch of them out of high strength resin. While it worked, they were very flexible and fragile and I had to "repair" almost all of them before they were usable. In the end I decided not to use them because they just didn't look right. Back to soldering 6 more sets out of brass.......
The end beams need more work including coupler lift bars (3) and grab irons. The rest of the grab irons will be done using parts out of Presicion Scales bin. Speaking of whom I have a new order going out to those folks soon covering such items as the bells, cab arm rests, air tanks etc. etc.
Some small detail parts have been completed but not installed because painting and weathering has to be completed first. Things like the cab window shades, these are canvas units on metal frames, made from brass wire and tissue already painted and weathered. You can see the mount holes in one of the photo's.
I have found a source for motors that looks good on the surface. These are "surplus" high quality motors that are very inexpensive and at these prices I can afford to give them a try. I'll let you know how this works out.
While it seems like this project is coming to an end I know better. There is a lot of work yet to do. Head down and forge ahead.
Originally one of the goals of this exercise was to build a fairly inexpensive model of an unavailable prototype. I have been having second thoughts about the cost involved. Basing the whole thing on the Athearn drive system was the best decision I've made so far. Even at that power trucks for both units have cost about $70 including the worm gears and caps. Detail parts have cost over $100 so far and more are to come. The basic scratch building materials ran about $30 but I have enough left to build another unit. I still have to purchase a decoder and sound system for both engines. This is not cheap!! Considering I bought a Bachmann Shay at Ebay for about $75 delivered, the economics are a little confused. However, I really enjoy scratchbuilding and there are no models like these available, period. Furthermore, I intend to do this again, I have projects lined up down the road when these are completed.
Truthfully there are mistakes in both of these models. They are far from perfect but then I haven't done this in over 30 years. I have had to relearn a lot of stuff. I have no intention of entering them in any contest and it is unlikely they would win anything if I did. I have never had much use for model contests. Believe me, I know where the problems are with them, I don't need someone else to point them out. I am a much harsher critic than any contest judge could be.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
These photo's show the progress I'm making on the U6's. The car bodies are assembled and some detail has been added. NBW etc. The black lines showing on the underframe are Archer weld beads. They look great and I intend to add some more. The overhead shot of the underframe is intended to show the Athearn truck retainer clips which work perfectly.....by accident !
The side view of the underframe shows the truck side frames mounted via some brass channel stock. They are missing the equalizers, springs and spring plates and the sand piping. The equalizers did not turn out very well ( my poor engineering) and I am still mulling over how to proceed. I need 8 identical pieces so they need to be etched, molded or some such to avoid really needless repitition by hand making each one that would never turn out the same.
The hood ends are resin moldings like the roof and truck side frames and I have fitted a brass door to the end showing. This is an access door for the radiator and cooling fan room. That still needs hinges and handles as do all the engine hood doors. I have made an order to Precision Scale for many small detail parts including those items plus horns, brake wheels and housings, sand filler hatches, headlights and more. Both units should start to look "busy" pretty soon. I've decided on brass angle for the handrail stanchions much like Alco switch engines. Fairly easy to fabricate and detail and very strong.
The "cab" unit is going to have interior detail. It is much too open not to. Brake stand, heater, control stand seats etc. painted that weird off green every engine I ever got on was (except the momentary chocolate brown period the SP went through in the late '70's)
The all together shot gives an idea of the "chunkiness" look of typical U6's. There is also an electrical conduit that fits just under the running boards that I intend to include that will visually add to that look.
The end steps are being molded along with m/u drop steps and should be installed at the next update.
The side view of the underframe shows the truck side frames mounted via some brass channel stock. They are missing the equalizers, springs and spring plates and the sand piping. The equalizers did not turn out very well ( my poor engineering) and I am still mulling over how to proceed. I need 8 identical pieces so they need to be etched, molded or some such to avoid really needless repitition by hand making each one that would never turn out the same.
The hood ends are resin moldings like the roof and truck side frames and I have fitted a brass door to the end showing. This is an access door for the radiator and cooling fan room. That still needs hinges and handles as do all the engine hood doors. I have made an order to Precision Scale for many small detail parts including those items plus horns, brake wheels and housings, sand filler hatches, headlights and more. Both units should start to look "busy" pretty soon. I've decided on brass angle for the handrail stanchions much like Alco switch engines. Fairly easy to fabricate and detail and very strong.
The "cab" unit is going to have interior detail. It is much too open not to. Brake stand, heater, control stand seats etc. painted that weird off green every engine I ever got on was (except the momentary chocolate brown period the SP went through in the late '70's)
The all together shot gives an idea of the "chunkiness" look of typical U6's. There is also an electrical conduit that fits just under the running boards that I intend to include that will visually add to that look.
The end steps are being molded along with m/u drop steps and should be installed at the next update.
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